This bathroom mirror DIY has been in the making for a VERY long time…and not because it’s a lengthy project, but because I dropped the ball. I wouldn’t even say I was lazy about it. Rather, I would say I couldn’t commit to the exact look I wanted- and then one day it hit me! Ahh. I know exactly what I want! Although I haven’t seen this exact idea anywhere, I did, however, get my inspiration from the latest floor trend: stenciling!
I know, stenciling isn’t a new concept, but the black and white flooring trends are and it caught my eye! I didn’t want to commit to painting tile flooring in our home- that is just too much. But, for a bathroom mirror, I can do that- not too crazy AND easily updated when said trend appalls us all.
Below I will talk about my process, what I learned (bc it’s a lot!), and exactly what I used to make it happen. I hope you love this look as much as I do! I’m seriously so happy to say goodbye to my builder grade mirrors. FINALLY!
- 2 1x4x8 pressure-treated boards (because that’s what I had on hand for my outdoor projects) Be sure to measure before buying your lumber because you can have the pieces cut for you in-store if you don’t have the equipment! $9.94 for both
- Martha Stewart Crafts Vintage Décor Paint in Beetle Black $11.49
- OR wood stain of your choice (my fav is MinWax Dark Walnut) $6.98
- Loctite Premium Polyurethane Construction Adhesive $4.98
- Minwax Polycrylic Protective Finish in Clear Satin $17.96
- Newborn 930-GTD Caulking Gun $10.95
- Stanley wood chisel set $10.97
- Martha Stewart Crafts Vintage Décor Paint in Wedding Cake $11.49
- Stencil (I made my own with mylar sheets and a Cricut!) $13.87
- Original ScotchBlue painter’s tape (to keep the stencil in place) $3.93
Lets get started!
Measure your mirror. I like to write everything out, so here is what I did to help me visualize:
Place the pre-cut boards (or cut yourself if you have the equipment) along the mirror edges to make sure your measurements are accurate AND to mark the spot on the board where the mirror clips* will be.
Next, make notches** on the back of the wood where you marked the mirror supports. Test your cuts to be sure the wood lies flat against the mirror. In the first photo below, you can see my messy notch. Please don’t use an orbital jig saw OR a table saw. I ruined a piece of wood this way and my blood pressure skyrocketed a few other times. Do as I say, not as I do: use a wood chisel set.
Paint, paint and stencil, or simply stain your wood***. Let dry, then, protect your wood from moisture by using the Minwax Polycrylic Protective Finish. This might be an extra step that some leave out, but I’d rather be safe than sorry and not worry about wood rot and/or mold.
I chose to paint and stencil mine!
Now, you are ready to hang your frame! With your caulk gun, spread the Loctite Premium Polyurethane Construction Adhesive in a wavy pattern, staying an inch away from the edges. Hold the plank in place for 20 seconds before moving on to the next one.
That’s it! A simple, inexpensive DIY that can make a huge difference in your space! If you try this project, be sure to tag me on Instagram or let me know in the comments below! Aaaand with permission, I will feature them in my story! I can’t wait to see what you come up with!
It takes half your life before you discover life is a do-it-yourself project.Napoleon Hill
*You CAN remove the plastic clip and screw in a washer (using the same screw) in its place so that the extra mirror support is still there, but less bulky and less wood to notch out of the back of the coordinating panel.
**To make notches by hand, make small parallel cuts, close together, where you want the notch to be. Then, use a chisel to hallow out the wood. The notches don’t have to be pretty, as they will be hidden.
***This is where the optional materials come in to play. You can either purchase a 3.5″ stencil (width of the planks) OR you can print a reuseable stencil on a Cricut using mylar sheets.